Posts by gorzak

    Breeder efficiency is the amount of recharged cells you get per used uranium cell in your breeder. (Btw talonius it would be epic if you can include that in the reactor planner!!). Having 4 depleted cells surounding a uranium cell at 9000 heat gives max possible breeder efficiency.

    I agree with you on this. 4 Isotopes around a Uranium is the best config, and heat is a big factor on how quickly they recharge. However, I feel current measurements do not describe anything meaningful when it comes to breeding. Lets work with examples. These examples won't have cooling because all we care about is demonstrating breeding efficiency. They will all assume that we somehow keep a constant 9k heat through a cooling config. A few things are obvious. These are not maximum best cases. Some would not even really make sense. Some of them mix boosts to energy efficiency and breeding. One thing isn't obvious - how do they stack up against each other when it comes to breeding. I'll list them with current measurments, and then with measurements that make sense to me. Energy efficiency is obvious. Breeding efficiency is how much isotopes get bred into uranium, and enrichment efficiency is an average how how effectively each isotope is being enriched.


    1)
    http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…=1k10101001501521s1r11r19
    10eu/t Eff 4.0
    vs


    10eu Energy Eff 1.0 Breeding 12/20 Enrichment 4/20


    2)
    http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…=1k10101001501521s1r11r19
    40eu/t Eff 3.5 breeder
    vs
    40eu/t Energy eff 2.0, Breeding Eff 7.5/20 enrichment eff 5/20


    3)
    http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…=1k10101001501521s1r11r19
    20 eu/t eff 3.0
    vs
    20 eu/t Energy eff 1.0, Breeding 6/20, enrichment 6/20



    4)
    http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…=1k10101001501521s1r11r19
    20 eu/t eff 4.0
    vs
    20 eu/t Energy 1.0, Breeding 12/20, enrichment 6/20



    5)
    http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…=1k10101001501521s1r11r19
    40 eu/t Eff 4.0
    vs
    40 eu/t Energy 2.0, Breeding 8/20, enrichment 4/20


    6)
    http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…=1k10101001501521s1r11r19


    40 eu/t Eff 5.0
    vs
    40 eu/t Energy 2.0 Breeding 15/20, enrichment 5/20
    Note: This is too hot to run at a constant 9k, it would have to be a positive breeder.



    The measurements I am using let us compare breeders. The benefit of using these measurements is you get to compare non optimal breeder configs. We can see for example that numbers 3 and 4 on average enrich thier isotopes faster than a more efficient breeder would. We can see that 1 & 4 have the same breeding efficiency as each other, but the other 4.0 eff #5 has traded some of its breeding down for better energy eff. These measurements especially important in seeing the trade offs in energy efficient productive designs that choose to incorporate breeding. We haven't seen a lot of those designs, and my main guess as to why is because we have no way of measuring the trade offs. There are a few mark IVs with empty slots I see, where adding isotopes in the slots lowers the effective eu/t only slightly, but has the same enrichment efficiency as perfect breeding. With measurements that say "the efficiency improves, and the effective eu/t goes down" it doesn't make sense enough to make comparisons to other breeding configs. With measurements that say "Energy efficiency remains the same, enrichment happens as effectively as a perfect breeder, breeding occurs at x amount (defraying the cost of fuel) and eu/t goes down by y amount due to extra heat" it may make a lot more sense, especially when you can compare the time & cost of generating the fuel in the standard perfect breeder config. It will be obvious which is better.


    1)
    http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…1k101010037ps011111101110
    Design uncredited, but not mine. It's in the list. It's a Mark 4 with a cold start
    Mk IV 330 eu/t active 67.79 effective eu/t 3.67 eff
    2)[url='' [url']http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…1k101010037ps011111101119[/url]'] http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…1k101010037ps011111101119[/url]
    My modification
    Mk V 330 eu/t active 55 effective eu/t 3.67 energy eff, 2.22 Breeding eff, 5 enrichment eff.
    You'd redstone this to pulse once and then cool down to maintain its temp hot. It's breeding efficiency doesn't matter that much, because efficiently breeding cells isn't the main thrust of the design. Its enrichment efficiency shows that at the same temps, these isotopes get enriched as efficiently as a perfect breeder. 2 enriched / cycle @ 9k heat an 5 enrichment efficiency means this design can enrich around 8 uranium while consuming 9.
    You are trading 13 eu/t for almost ALL OF THE FUEL COST. For 13 eu/t.
    Or if you use previous measurements, all you know is that eff goes from 3.67 to 4.11 and effective eu/t goes down to 55 from 68.


    You all don't have to adopt these measurments if you don't want to, I am just pointing out that when breeding is included, current measurements fall short of describing things meaningfully.

    The way Efficiency is measured for energy makes sense to me. The way efficiency is measured for breeding does not. Energy efficiency is Energy (pulses) generated / Uranium. Breeding efficiency is currently measured as (energy + breeding pulses) / Uranium. What this measurement is supposed to describe, I am unsure, it makes no sense to me.


    There are 2 other measures that make sense to me
    Enrichment Efficiency is Pulses recieved by isotopes / # of isotopes. This measure is how effecient the isotopes are at becoming re-enriched, note that it can exceed 5 (max 20) when isotopes are adjacent to multiple Urianium... which makes sense as that isotope is being bred more efficiently. Scoring high on this is hard, but it is a good measure to compare how adding isotopes to a power config compares with a typical breeder config. Typical 1 U / 4 I configs score 5 /20


    Breeding efficiency, in my mind, should be measured as Pulses recieved by isotopes / # of uranium. That would measure how efficiently the uranium was being spent on re-enrichment, but again that would cap at 20, not 5. 1 U surrounded with 4 Isotopes scores 20/20. 2U contiguous surrounded by 6 isotopes scores 15/20, which makes sense as you have traded some of the uranium's interaction for better energy efficiency. This allows a relationship between energy and breeding efficiency where when one goes up, the other goes down, which is the way it actually works.


    This is a 70eu/t 2.33 energy efficient Mk II 52.05 effective eu/t ... that runs on isotopes. Breeder efficiency 5, enrichment efficiency 5. It breeds its own fuel with the right preheat. The wrong preheat makes it a mark IV... and if you leave a mark IV alone, it can boom. Instructions on preheat to come.http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…2=1k101010114110101001013
    edit: Preheat instructions. 5k heat average is safe, as from a cold start it goes 2.15 cycles, it generates less than 5k/ part. So we are aiming for a preheat of 5k, with a little less being ok, and a little more not so ok. 47 parts + 1 hull is heat distributed to 48 parts, aiming at 5k heat each. Thats 240000 total heat, you can forget about lava buckets (4.8million energy opportunity cost) to get there. If we had 24 parts at 9999 heat and 24 parts at 0 heat, the dispensers would even that out to 5k heat each part during operation... time for a 23 minute game of crazy ivan! Crazy Ivan config is shown below. Its designed to heat up cooling cells while leaving hull temp stable (constant). It does require both changing the environment, and hull preheat of 5 lava buckets, and constant monitoring. Constant monitoring is encourged in any breeder preheat config. Preheat the hull to get decent breeding while playing crazy ivan, and I am counting that as 1 part heated when we switch configs. Heat up 23 cooling cells and store them in your inventory and/or nearby chest, not the reactor where they would cool. When the last red dot disappears from the cooling cell's heat meter, it is at 9375 heat. so pull it right after that. When you have 23 hotties stored, restore the external cooling environment and load up the config shown above. When it's finished, you'll have 3 re-enriched cells, and no danger of explosion, perfect for starting it up and not worrying about coming back until after it is done, mark II style. If you don't want to redo the heating up part, wait the exact cooldown period and refuel it. If you don't wait the full cooldown, it will overheat (obvious, right?). If you allow it to cool down too much, then the isotopes will not fully charge the next cycle.


    70 eu/t Mk II 2.33 energy efficient Mk II 40.73 effective eu/t that runs on isotopes. Breeder efficiency 6, enrichment efficiency 6. It breeds it's own fuel if you check in at the right time. Lower effective eu/t and a bit of babysitting is the trade off for cold start safety.
    http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…e=1l101010114110101001010



    40 eu/t Mk V HC Breeder that runs at 10k+ heat. 1 energy efficiency, 4.8/20 enrichment efficiency, 12/20 breeding efficiency "Crazy Ivan's Hot Potato." As a Mk V, this is a manned configuration. This is also meant to be an entertaining game you can use to preheat a breeder's cooling cells. Pay attention to the external cooling. This is a Hull Constant design. The sim is more accurate set to 0 starting heat, each cell gets pounded with 160 heat/s and lasts 60 seconds. Right before it pops, put a fresh one in the spot diagonal and pull the hot one out and into your inventory to store it. This is safer than you would think. If you screw up, the plating soaks heat for 4 minutes before the hull temps will change and it becomes dangerous, so missing by a second or 2 ain't no thang. Leaving this alone for 5 minutes means boom, so don't do that. This is the most efficient way to heat cooling cells somewhat safely.
    http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…y=1l101010114010101001019

    As far as I can tell, it is impossible. Cold start on the breeder really hurts the ability to replenish itself. If the heat effect on breeding is linear, and I suspect it is, cold start cuts it capability in half. If it is geometric, then it would be much much more detrimental.


    http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…2=1k101010114110101001013 - I like this design, and I suspect there is a heat sweet spot where it will last a full cycle and deliver full enriched cells at the end. 2.33 energy eff with 70 eu/t, breeder eff 5 x 3 cells. It's still a mark II at 5k heat, but its a mark IV at 6k. I think the sweet spot is probably @ 5k, no way to be sure without trying. Thats not a cold start though.


    Sameish design with a cold start: http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…o=1m101010114010101001010


    So if your stuck on a cold start it seems there are certain mathematical facts. Greater than 2 energy efficiency requires 3u minimum. Energy gains max out at ~70 / adjacent uranium if the parts are near melting when the cycle finishes. The maximum cooling you can fit in a reactor is 40 cooling cells, + 33 external cooling for 73 cooling total. The total heat for 54 parts + 6 chamber hull is 700,000 heat tolerance. At 10,000 ticks, 70 excess heat would melt everything. If this theoretical 40 cooling 14 dispenser reactor with no uranium somehow gained heat, it would take 143 total heat for it to melt in a cycle. If it can melt a max cooling reactor, it can melt anything so 143 is above the cap for a cold start mark 2, and can be considered a rough maximum. Replacing a dispenser lowers the heat max by one, replacing a cooling cell replaces the heat max by 2.


    With 67% you can get even breeding/consumption with a 3u/4 receiving isotope config. 3u / 3i if you put one of the isotopes next to 2 u in the corner config. It took me a while to hash this out, but here it is http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…e=1l101010114010101001010 . This is everything you asked for, with one catch. you have to be there at the 2/3 mark to switch out the full isotope with a depleted one, then the following cycle, @ the 1/3 mark to switch the other 2. I think you said you want a lazyboy. If you have to stop in in the middle, you might as well be running a mark IV, right?


    If you want fire and forget mark 2 style, there are break points for energy gain. 20, 33, 50, 100, basically between any of those 2 numbers, the lower number is all you get. 70% energy gain is the same as 50% if you leave the full one in the reactor, so any gains above 50% energy are wasted. Lowering our expecations of energy gains means there needs to be more isotopes recieving those gains. the 3 contiguous needs to touch Isotopes 6 times instead of 4. a corner config gives a requirement of 5 isotopes. That leaves only 2 spaces next to the uranium, so heat generated can only be reduced in one config, with the exposed U elbow next to coolants. http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…b=1k101010114010101001010 is the best I can come up with, it falls short of what you want as a mark IV. It will melt. it is still too hot. With the ability to magically place components outside the grid, the perfect ratio of dispensers to coolant cells is 4:1. Lets pretend all the spaces fall in a best case, just to see if its possible. 8 slots for U and I leaves 46 for D and C. 10 Dispensers, 36 coolant cells. 60 excess heat. even if heat was magically dispensed to 46 coolant cells, with 3u and 5i, it would still be 50 excess heat and still melt down before a full cycle. Too much heat in theoretical better than best cases. It is not possible.


    So you have a choice. Mark IV, Mark II with timed check ins (babysitting), or a heat up phase for a 3u 3i config. I'm gonna do the math on the last, because it intruiges me.

    Hostile mobs despawn if > 32 meters away from you, instantly if > 128.
    Chickens (and other breedables) do not to my knowledge despawn. They are no longer visible when you exceed a certain distance from them, but are still loaded into memory, laying eggs, walking around, or standing trapped on a pressure plate. They get loaded and unloaded with the chunk they are standing in, so I suppose for "edge" cases where the redstone line/chicken is just on the other side of a chunk edge and you are just the right distance away to have the reactor chunk loaded but not the chicken/off signal, the reactor could start emitting radiation without recieving an off signal. As soon as you came closer, the off signal would turn on in 4 seconds, or if you went further, the reactor chunk would unload suspending it.


    I suppose that is another way of achieving meltdown. Build the off signal into a different chunk than the off switch (18% chance without planning) stand still the perfect distance away in the right direction so the reactor is running with the off switch disengaged. It could happen, through mischance that you built it that way by accident and went afk at just the wrong spot, but the odds are way, way against it. Redstone timers would suffer the same fate if you stood in the same spot.

    if you are using the perfect breeder, that is when you reconfigure it from heating to standard config to maintain it's heat level. The point of breeders is the isotopes gain energy faster if the reactor hull is hotter. You heat it up to get more efficiency, then run it hot in a way that neither gains nor loses heat. After the depleted isotopes bar fills it turns into re-enriched uranium. It has the same properties as depleted istopes, so it doesn't change the way the reactor works except one thing, there is no bar to fill, it is finished. Because you gain nothing by leaving it there, where you would gain something with a depleted isotope in its place, you want to switch out the re-enriched uranium with a depleted isotope to continue to breed (charge up more uranium). You also want to be there when the uranium fuel runs out, as that is when all the work that went into heating it starts to get undone. Your options then are replace the fuel to continue breeding hot, if you have a lot of spare parts, pull the hot parts and store them hot to save work heating them up next time, or just let it all cool. Re-enriched uranium turns to normal fuel when you add a coal dust to it.

    I have been playing with hull constant breeders in game.


    The only problem I see is in the Sim setting starting heat sets all components to that heat when no dispensers are present. The lava bucket count is correct, so it knows not to add more heat to components that will never receive it, but parts not connected to a dispenser are assigned heat they do not receive in game. The sim is right for the runtime starting at 0 hull heat, and the heat values for components is correct there. In game, dumping in 5 buckets of lava, with that setup, you get the same runtime and component heat as 0, the sim shows a much lower runtime incorrectly.


    Also, I haven't tested this, but I suspect armor plating provides no cooling until and unless there are no components for it to transfer heat to, so the .1 cooling it purports to provide may also be inaccurate. I will have to devise a test to confirm that.



    raGan - your design has the same effective cooling if you remove the top 2 cooling cells. You can also shift the remaining 2 over to replace the plating, which makes it slightly cheaper to make.

    Nice catch, corrected.


    While the benefits of HC designs are nice, I doubt the idea will be that popular. What you get is very easy warm ups, permanant warm ups, hotter hull temps than possible with heat dispensers. The cost however, is the cap on efficiency. A lot of people won't build more than a mark II, and 2 eff on a breeder is downright poor. With babysitting, a mark IV caps at 4 eff, which seems to get around 4 uranium to 1 consumed. The whole point of breeders is to provide fuel, and with returns of ~8 to 1 with babysitting on current standard breeders, the cost compared to the benefits probably outweighs it.


    Still, It is fun to tinker with. I encourage everyone to play a game I like to call "Crazy Ivan". It's like hot potato with cooling cells. There is little danger of meltdown, as the armor plating needs to melt before any heat goes to hull. The idea of the game is to pull the cooling cells before they melt and replace them with fresh ones. You store the hot cooling cells elsewhere in the reactor, so they can cool themselves. Technically, you are manually doing the job of dispensing the heat among the different cells by swapping them. Alternatively, you can use this method to safely heat up the cooling cells for a more standard perfect breeder design. I made a design that pops a cooling cell every 30 seconds http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…w=101c1010114010101001010 but haven't tried it for 2 reasons. 1) it scares me. 2) When you are swapping the cooling cell out, the plating eats the heat because there is no alternative heating cell. Thats not sustainable, plating doesn't cool fast enough. It is also not sustainble in that there isn't enough free space for cells to cool completely. A more sustainable design is http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…g=10101011114110101001010 . Still not enough cooling space, but the plating doesn't heat because you can pop the fresh dispenser in the diagonnaly symmetrical slot before removing the hot one. I think I am going to use this design next as a coolant heater to while transitioning to a standard 5eff perfect breeder.

    It is battle tested as well, it has shut off my mark V breeder twice now. I am running it at the radiation threshold, 11.2k. It should be nuetral, I may have a slight positive somewhere, but my chicken has died twice.


    I figured it out... I picked up armor plating, which reduced the threshold by reducing the hull heat resistance.... anyways, it works.

    Recipe for ending nuclear meltdowns.


    1 egg ....


    1 good egg, so probably more like 25 eggs.


    I am serious. Eggs. You need them.
    Add a pinch of redstone dust. Some may say this is optional, but it's good to have. I used 3 dust, so it's ok to be afraid of it, you can still do it.
    1 redstone torch. Uh oh, more redstone stuff, this is beginning to sound complicated, huh? If you want simple, you'll like the next ingredient.


    Glass. and a solid block, like cobblestone, a half slab + 1 of your choice.
    Stone pressure plate. Now we are back to the complicated ingredients... signal this and invert that and what's next? That's it, that's all you need to prevent nuclear apocolypse.



    I suppose it would be nice to have another thing, that isn't really a thing. The ability to plan a spot for this when you build your reactor building. This one is probably the hardest for most of you who already have your buildings built.


    So a picture is worth a thousand words. Here is three thousand words worth.


    Very visible proof of concept during my building mock up priot to building my plant.
    http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/577/20120214151132.png/



    Action shot with concealing floor removed.
    http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/254/20120216015439.png/



    Shot from the walkway, what it looks like during use.
    http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/848/20120215203504.png/



    A chicken will prevent nuclear meltdown. I told you you'd need eggs.


    Ok, step one, take your solid block. The chicken is going to stand on it. The chicken needs to be standing in the 7x7x7 centered on your reactor, but the 3x3x3 is your external cooling, and really nasty things can happen to blocks in the 5x5x5, so i put it on the edge of the 7x7. You should too! You can go up or down, but if you put in the bottom or top edge, remember the chicken standing on it has to be in the cube, so the block is one lower than the chicken. Ok, the hard part is done. Now, we are going to put a torch on the side of the block. Not just any torch, a redstone torch! Whew, redstone is hard. The plan is to connect that torch to the reactor using redstone dust. It shouldn't take much. Make sure the redstone points into the reactor, I don't think going sideways works. If move the redstone torch to a different side of the block makes it easy, do that, but the torch needs to be on the side of the block, not the top. We have plans for the top.


    If you've done what I said, a redstone torch is sending a signal to your reactor, shutting it off. This is good. Now, I had plans for the top of that block. If your thinking chicken, you are a few steps ahead, calm down pardna. First a stone pressure plate. Now hop onto it. When you do, the signal to the reactor shuts off, allowing it to start. I think you see how this is going to work now. Something on the block, reactor works. Nothing on the block, reactor is off. So we put a chicken on it, and the chicken lets the reactor work. But we gotta keep the chicken trapped. That's what the other blocks are for. Put the glass on top, above the pressure plate. Put the half slab where you want to stand when you are looking at the chicken, and the remaining block(s) of your choice whereever they need to go to make sure it is trapped on the other 3 sides. I needed only 1 extra block because it's in the corner. So you now have a 1 block space with a pressure plate, with a half slab for access and a glass top for your viewing pleasure.


    It is now time... for the chicken. This part can be tricky, because the eggs like to breack on the glass, but good aim will make them hit the pressure plate. Fire away until you get a baby chick. Now your chicken prison is populated! and the chick should turn off the redstone allowing the reactor to start as you like. Why does this chicken stop meltdowns? Bad things happen as the reactor gets hot. Flammables burst into flames, in a 5x5 area. If your wire is sitting on a wood block I am going to punch you. it will burn and you can't turn the reactor off! Then water starts to evaporate. You did put your source blocks outside the 5x5 right? The worst is complete meltdown, accompanied by a massive explosion. What we just did will avoid that, but you should build a massive bunker out of reinforced stone anyway, because it looks cool. Before that happen, blocks in the 5x5 melt and turn to lava. We just prevented that too, but don't count on reinforced stone to provide shielding in this zone, it will probably melt instead. Note that when this occuring, your off switch, the redstone wire, can and will melt and become useless, so we can't let it get here either. We won't, because before that happens, at 70% hull heat, the reactor starts leaking radiation, damaging all nearby life, you included. But you probably aren't there, if you were you'd hit the off switch. The chicken is there. This brave sentinel is waiting vigilantly to respond to this event by... well, dying. He is trapped there after all. and in death he serves his purpose, by no longer stepping one the STONE pressure plate. Not even his drops would keep the redstone torch from sending the off signal... you did use stone pressure plate, not wood right? Wood pressure plate would allow his dead poultry body to keep the reactor on for 5 minutes. Don't use wood, use stone like I said,. So when the 70% threshold is reached, your helpless chicken captive dies, and the reactor gets shut off. Your reactor will not turn back on until you restock your chicken.


    There are a couple unlikely ways you can still achieve meltdown. If you pack your reactor so full of uranium that it will melt down before the chicken finishes dying in 4 seconds, then you will melt down. That takes a 6 sec meltdown time, which is achievable. Manually adding buckets of lava after you start taking damage until it explodes would do it. Using more isotopes than external cooling can compensate for would allow the reactor to be gaining heat even while its off, so if you stuff it full of isotopes that offer no benefit and pour lava on the reactor to negate cooling, that would do it too. So really, unless you blow it up on purpose, this chicken kill switch should prevent ALL meltdowns during normal operation.


    Have fun with it!

    I have been tinkering with this idea.


    I think it does deserve it's own breeder classification. I propose the term "Hull Constant". You have to think about it differently, the point of the design is to keep hull heat constant (high) for the purpose of breeding. It is never fully cooled, the hull is supposed to keep its heat even outside operation.


    There are 3 ways to achieve this.


    True Hull constant
    Both Isotopes and external cooling must affect hull heat only, so it's natural to balance them. Uranium heat goes to components. No dispensers are used (they suck heat out of the hull). There is no mark 1, as there is no way to distribute heat enough. Mark II has a cooldown period, but as this is a "Hull Constant" design, the hull doesn't cool down, just the components. The cooldown period is defined by how long it takes the hottest cooling cell to cool off. Here are some designs:


    Mark II: All of these mark IIs have cooldown of 51 min 43s and are mark II - 3 In practice they are identical. Mark 2s all have constant 2 eff. If you are willing to swap in 3 extra cooling cells/ uranium (stored unlinked in the reactor to cool) they can be run like mark 1s


    raGan's design (slight tweak to external cooling) http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…=1010121101501521s1r11r10


    Slightly cheaper: http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…=1010141001501521s1r11r10 This is near perfect for 4 buckets of lava @8k hull heat constant. 8050 is radiation threshold It has the same cooldown as the above reactor.


    Scaled up: http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…=1010101301501521s1r11r10 11200 is radiation threshold, so 5 buckets of lava sets hull to 10k permanently.


    Mark IVs Couple options here. Standard on / off cycles are fine, but there are so many empty slots, if you slot unlinked coolant cells and swap the cold with the hot, you can get much greater runtime. If there are more unused cells than excess heat, then you can have constant uptime.


    3 eff : 10 eu/t
    http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/reactorplanner.html?518fwjxc6iqi1ejgdqq=10101011114110101001010</a>
    83m 20s Up. 166m 39s off, alternatively enough cells to maintain runtime through swapping.


    3 eff : 20 eu/t http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…i=10101013114010101001010


    Scaled up. Same up down times, but not enough free space for coolant swapping, so some downtime or spare parts needed.


    3 eff : http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…i=10101013114010101001010
    55m 32s up, same down, enough space for swap cooling constant uptime.


    Mark IV -s 10 eu/t
    4 eff. http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…e=10101213114010101001010


    I like to call this one crazy ivan's Hot potato. If your bored and you want to breed uranium, you can make a game of whack a mole, trying to keep the heat even in all the extra cells. 4 is the best eff a true heat constant breeder can achieve, as there needs to be one cooling component next to the Uranium. 36 cooling cells are needed. Swapping is near impossible without empty space, 3 spaces and 3 extra cells make it sustainable. Safe uptime of only 18m 30s.


    Operational hull constant


    These still don't use heat dispensers, so hull heat is decoupled from component heat. External cooling is still designed to be equal to hull heating, but with this subclass, uranium is allowed to interact with hull. The result is while operating, the hull remains a constant temperature regardless of what the components are doing. The down side is that when not operation, the hull heat generated changes. With some fancy piston work, you could change the external cooling to match, added to your redstone off switch, but most people will instead allow the hull to cool after the fuel expires. What distinguishes this from your standard breeder is the heat up phase. From cold, you feed lava buckets directly into the HULL, then pop the uranium in, and its up and running with hot hull the whole operational time. With heat dispensers, lava heat gets sucked into components, that doesn't happen with these. Sadly, with external cooling maxing out at 33 and no dispensers to link in more cooling cells, it's hard to get efficiency and uptime. I think the basic no component perfect breeders don't need this classification because there are no components to decouple from the hull.


    Here is an example:
    Mark II hybrid 2 eff energy + 2 eff breeding (1cell) 40 eu/t output http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…i=10101010114010101001010
    mark IV 3 eff http://www.talonfiremage.pwp.b…m=1k101010114010101001010 swapping extends runtime, but not indefinetly


    Manual hull temperature maintenance


    The third way to maintain hull temp is should not really be new at all, but I don't see it talked about a lot. Standard breeders can maintain hull temps even with heat dispensers with manual reconfiguration of the reactor. Time goes into making the breeder hot. 9k heat for each cooling cell and heat dispenser must be generated then take time to distribute through the system. We are talking heat totals of > 400k, with cooling happening during distribution, which is why a full 6 chamber reactor takes > 250 buckets of lava and more than 30 minutes. Instead of heating up the parts each time, you can store the hot parts to prevent them from cooling. The cooling cells are critical, they will cool themselves down at the very least if heat is not being generated and fed to them. From there, if you want to keep the hull hot, reconfigure external cooling to match isotope heat generation either by adding isotopes or changing cooling blocks to heating blocks. If you want to use the hull for a cold non breeder start, pull and store your hot dispensers for breeding use later, and socket in all the cold cooling parts for your generating run, maybe throwing some SUC in along the way, and the parts will be cold probably by the time you finish. With hot parts stored, and a cold hull, with any perfect breeder config, all you need is 5 buckets of lava instantly and your heat phase is over.