Posts by MauveCloud

    As for what to do with it, you can smelt each crushed ore to get an ingot (except uranium), or further process it with an ore washing plant (to get about 22% extra output per crushed ore, as well as some stone dust) and/or thermal centrifuge (to get byproducts and actual metal dust instead of crushed ore). If you specifically need metal dust for something, you can macerate ingots.

    Agreed. It wasn't included in the image, but I copied the code, and found that it will explode in about 42 seconds. Also, a quad fuel rod surrounded by iridium neutron reflectors puts all of the heat into the core, and only the overclocked heat vents will pull it back out - all of the heat exchangers in that design are component heat exchangers, which don't interact with core heat. Replacing them all with core heat exchangers buys some time, and brings it up to 611 seconds for explosion. (although some of the components will break before then - a couple of them as early as 82 seconds in) Replacing them with overlocked heat vents doesn't actually help as much with stability.


    On the other hand, I notice you're running the reactor in fluid mode, and fluid reactors do well in pulsed mode, since they can continue to output residual heat into the coolant even when the redstone signal is off. A bit of trial and error, and I found that 20 seconds on, 27 seconds off works well with your existing design. I should note that default settings assume you have Nuclear Control 2 installed to only resume when the off-pulse duration has elapsed and the reactor has fully cooled (at least I think that's what it's doing - I'll re-read my code to make sure). I should probably add a label to the planner to explain that, and suggest setting the resume temperature really high to simulate not having NC2 installed.

    Have you fixed all the maintenance problems on the EBF? If you haven't (usually because no soldering iron/ducttape) it'll take 5A of LV power to finish. (120EU/t + 10% = 132, which is more than four inputs can supply.)

    Actually, energy hatches take 2 amps each, so 3 will be enough. However, you'll probably need a 9-slot or 16-slot battery buffer to get 5 amps into the cables. Putting steam turbines next to the energy hatches won't work for that. Using 5 energy hatches will overclock the recipe to HV tier and it will suddenly need 480 EU/t (528 if one maintenance problem remains) instead.

    Microsoft plans to only update Windows 10, most likely they will take money for an upgrade and without the upgrade the PC won't work anymore, or will be as bad off as a Windows 7 without support because of the mandatory update policy in Windows 10.

    I'm curious where you get that information. Looking at https://support.microsoft.com/…dows%2010&Filter=FilterNO I see the extended support for Win10 is scheduled to end in 2025 or 2026 (depending on exact edition), and the only way that could work is if there is an eventual successor version of Windows, rather than just an update/service pack.

    There won't be a Windows 11, at least it was not planned.

    Maybe it won't be called "Windows 11", but I'm sure Microsoft is already planning some sort of successor to Windows 10. They'd be stupid not to.


    In Germany there is even debate if it is allowed to be used in university settings because by default if you type a paper on it Microsoft has rights on that, too.

    Okay, that's a controversy I was previously unaware of.

    I would not use windows 10, it has serious issues with collecting data and even allows microsoft to look at your pc and download and use everything on there. Cooler and powersupply I don't know about, just don't know the manufacturers, the rest looks okay. If I pick a powersupply, I always pick one from beQuiet, that is the best one I know of, I might be wrong there thought. If it's in the budget I would try for a bigger hdd, 1tb is full fairly fast with the size most games already have, put a few videos or music there and it's full to the brim. Also a good idea is to get an additional ssd, even if it's just a small one for the operating system, the pc will boot within seconds with one.


    Daenara

    Presuming Drago892 plans to play other games like Skyrim Special Edition, Fallout 4, or Battlefield 1 as well as Minecraft, upgrading to Windows 10 (or possibly 11 once it comes out) will eventually be necessary (extended support for Win7 ends in 2020), so one might as well take Win10 it while getting a new computer anyway. It's possible to turn off the data collection options, though IMO privacy is an illusion to begin with (especially online).


    From what I've read, installing Minecraft on a Linux distro isn't too hard, but getting games that are more "mainstream" to run decently under Linux could be a nightmare.


    As far as power supply, I consider Seasonic to be the top of the line. They don't make any bad psus. beQuiet is a good brand too, but a little hard to get in the US.


    Bigger HDD and added SSD might be good, but let's wait until Drago892 provides a specific budget, and possibly more usage details, like what other games he/she has (or plans to buy). Even better would be filling in a copy of the template from the Tom's Hardware sticky about asking for new build advice:

    http://www.tomshardware.com/fo…2-31-build-upgrade-advice

    The cables drop 0.2 EU per block, solars emit only 1 EU packets. That's 20% loss per cable. To mitigate that you want to get to a bigger packet size as soon as possible.

    :( Empirical testing does not match tooltip claims. If it dropped 0.2 EU per block, then it would stop after 4-5 cables as I originally predicted. However, with IC2 build 209 and the latest Forge, I can get it to run through 9 tin cables (either insulated or uninsulated; I hadn't actually tried the uninsulated before, I expected it to have worse losses as well as shocking nearby entities - running it through 10 was with an older Forge build). The EU-reader on the batbox shows an average EU in wavering around 100 mEU/t, though a max of 198. Seems to me the loss is more like 0.09 EU/block (or 0.10 if you don't count the batbox as part of the distance)

    I am a newbie in PC gaming and I have never spent a lot of time for it, but you know sometimes there are moments when you just want to relax but my current PC is too old for games

    I saved up some money to buy a machine, especially for gaming.

    https://www.bestadvisor.com/best-gaming-pcs

    All help and suggestions will be much appreciated

    I'm not sure your post belongs in this thread - moving it to a new thread might be better. However, I'm not a big fan of prebuilt PCs. They tend to skimp out on certain areas (often the power supply - I'm having trouble finding much detail about the psu for the "best pick", leaving me uncertain of its reliability) and put more than is really needed in other areas (like the cpu - very few games can really see the benefit of an i7 cpu over an i5). Here's a quick build I came up with similar to that "best pick" but a little cheaper:

    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant


    CPU: Intel - Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($228.79 @ SuperBiiz)
    CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.89 @ OutletPC)
    Motherboard: ASRock - Z270 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($103.98 @ Newegg)
    Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($126.94 @ Amazon)
    Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.89 @ NCIX US)
    Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X Video Card ($259.99 @ Amazon)
    Case: Deepcool - TESSERACT SW ATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ SuperBiiz)
    Power Supply: SeaSonic - 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($51.89 @ Newegg)
    Optical Drive: Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($17.79 @ OutletPC)
    Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($87.89 @ OutletPC)
    Keyboard: Logitech - MK120 Wired Slim Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($14.47 @ OutletPC)
    Total: $1014.51
    Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
    Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-10 10:49 EDT-0400

    If you specify your actual budget and your country of residence, I might be able to provide a better build for you.

    The wiki is rarely kept up to date from what I've seen. The tooltips are a more reliable source of this kind of detail (when available). Checking in-game, I see the solar panel does not list the power generation, but I think it's still 1 EU/t during daylight. However, the problem might be with the cables - tin cables now have 0.2 EU/block loss, so the solar panels that are 3 blocks or more away barely contribute anything, and at 5 or more blocks away, their contribution drops all the way to zero. At least that's what one would expect based on the numbers.


    I did some experimentation in creative mode, and determined that 10 insulated tin cables between a solar panel and a batbox still allows a trickle of power, but 11 cables and no power gets through. I thought maybe this meant that the solar panel was now 2 EU/t during daytime, but the EU reader says it's 1 EU/t max. Looking closer, I notice that both the insulated and uninsulated cables list 0.20 EU/block loss, which is unlikely to be correct.


    Aside from addons like compact solars or advanced solars (which both have 1.10.2 versions, though the latter is a remake by a different author iirc), I think the best way to reduce loss from solar panels is to buffer the energy in transformers (step-up mode) or energy storage blocks directly adjacent to the solar panels. Using insulated tin cables from the solar panels results in 10% energy lost per block traveled, while even just using a batbox to output pulses of 32 EU through insulated tin cables reduces this to 0.3%, and stepping up to MV and insulated copper cables (pulses of 128 EU) makes it about 0.08%.

    always show when the message was sent, not only on hover and new messages at the bottom not the top

    I second the part about always showing when the message was sent. Doesn't the shoutbox already show new messages at the bottom though? ?( Maybe it temporarily showed them at the top, and I wasn't here for that.


    Also, it would be nice to have an option for both shoutbox and posts to make it show full timestamps instead of relative times (e.g. currently it shows things like "23 hours ago", "10 hours ago", etc. - can't I get more precise (and absolute) timestamps than that before 24 hours have passed?) iirc, the old forum showed full timestamps (to the minute at least, maybe it wasn't to the second, and I won't insist on going that far)

    Strange. I wonder why I couldn't find it in the GT5u source code then. I wouldn't expect Tinkers' Construct to add the processing recipe. Although... does Tinkers' construct allow making glue blocks from IC2 rubber ingots via the smeltery? GregTech might detect those recipes from Tinkers, which would be harder to track down in the source.


    Anyway, dividing the total EU by the EU/t reveals that the default recipe takes 5 ticks, as does the recipe you tried to add via MineTweaker. This means that the config entry applies to both recipes. To allow enabling yours separately, you need to give it a different duration - 1 tick shorter or longer is sufficient.

    I meant for you to provide an image of the old recipe without your attempt to disable it via config (although perhaps you tried to, and the new forum software broke the embedded image). I don't use Tinkers' Construct, so I wouldn't have it in my config, and I searched through GT5u code downloaded from GitHub, but I can't find what the normal duration of this "rubber ingot to Tinkers' glue block" recipe you mention is. I wonder if it's actually added by another mod. (apparently there's one called "Tinkers' Gregworks", which presumably adds extra cross-functionality between Tinkers' Construct and GregTech, so it could be from that)


    Side note: I presume gregtech:gt.metaitem.01:32308 is the block mold, but it's not obvious here. For the sake of readability and future maintainability, I suggest you assign it to a value with a more descriptive name.

    Hmmm, ive tried that now, and it seems it does not work very well.


    Because when i disable the recipes in the config, i cant add new recipes per MineTweaker.


    Any solution? :)

    Please provide more details, like what the GT recipe(s) you're removing looked like, and the scripts you're using to add new recipes.


    Since disabling GT recipes in the configs is based on the time taken by the recipes, a new recipe with the same output or input (whichever can be isolated to a single item/block) has to have a different duration, otherwise the config will also apply to the new recipe(s).

    Also something else sems to have changed. The old forum could keep me logged in, I checked the box but had to log in again with the new one.

    I noticed that as well. Is the forum relying on session cookies now?


    Looking at the cookies for the site in Firefox, it looks like wcf_boardLastActivityTime, wcf_userID, and wcf_password expire in a little under 5 months; wsc30_userID and wsc30_password expire in about a year, but wsc30_cookieHash is a session cookie. However, I don't quite understand how that last one expiring logs me out.

    I don't know if I'll get any replies to this, since some of my previous similar threads were a bit short on replies, but it might be worth a try anyway.


    I've been trying to play GT 5.10, but due to the rendering issues and a few other reasons, I'm planning to start a new world soon with the following mods:



    Any suggested changes?


    Edit: also, if anyone here has tips on preventing this from happening, that would be nice: http://www.minecraftforum.net/…alms-404-in-single-player

    When I download it, I still can't find it, it even make my Minecraft crash before the game start! How can everyone use it?


    In case you hadn't noticed, this thread is in the "outdated addons" section, which implies that few others (if any) are still using this version.


    What version of Minecraft did you try to install it for, and did you follow the additional install instructions from the first post of the thread?


    According to the version history, the latest version of the mod in this thread is for IC2 v1.71, which according to the Public Releases section is pre-experimental, and for Minecraft 1.1.